Fashion Week SS24 kicked off in New York on September 8 and ended on the 13th. Hosting a number of landmark events, including the return of brands like Ralph Lauren and 3.1 Phillip Lim to the calendar, as well as the debuts of emerging designers like Grace Ling and recent “Project Runway: All Stars” winner Bishme Cromartie. And there were also brand “anniversaries” to consider, such as the 10th anniversary of designer Rio Uribe’s Gypsy Sport brand. Let’s take a look back at the shows that gave us butterflies!
Somewhere between ready-to-wear and haute couture, the New York brand returns this year with a Fall/Winter collection inspired by prehistory. Piotrek Panszczyk said he wanted to play between the wild and the glamorous, questioning the importance of materials such as fur and bone.
Alejandro’s unique and controversial vision, as well as his inquisitive nature and obsessive attention to detail, have not gone unnoticed. Indeed, the fusion of masculine tailoring techniques and feminine lines in his ‘Cruising in the Rose Garden’ collection has attracted a lot of attention. It celebrates the duality between romance and passion, masculinity and femininity, romance and chic.
In its latest “Lost in Paradise” collection, the label draws inspiration from exploration and travel to discover the harmony between a woman’s personal expression and nature. It offers a wide selection of long hooded dresses in vibrant colors, studded with rhinestones and flowers, all set against a backdrop of tropical plants.
For her Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Harris Reed, the Anglo-American designer who fights for the beauty of fluidity, drew on a handful of inspirations, from surrealism to Film Noir, vintage corsets and Alexander McQueen. Glitz, ego and a little self-proclaimed majesty have long been associated with the kind of clothes Harris Reed offers.
For this year’s students, the theme of the season was the word “UNIVERSAL”, to represent the different personalities of each of the students and their ability to be coherent. Between 3D printing and patchwork byLilash Porges on her mini-dresses, Kuai Li’s Geometric face covers or Haueisen, who wanted to challenge toxic visions of gender through her collection, the collections presented were able to make a difference.
Known for its hashtag #BRB. It’s no surprise that Raúl Lopez’s Luar spring collection was inspired by travel. “El Hoyo” (“the hole” in Spanish), is a modest neighborhood in the Dominican Republic. “It’s a very rural and difficult neighborhood, but it’s so beautiful and I love going there,” he said at a preview the day before his show closed at New York Fashion Week. The buttery yellow square jacket that opened the show featured rows of fully functional roller buttons that wrapped around the arms and could be unbuttoned to form a short-sleeved jacket.
You probably already know the subject: office wear, tools… This collection was mainly about evolving the utilitarian and constructive language we’ve been playing with so far, mentioning the scaffolding and industrial design of his Melbourne and Miami stores as well as the utilitarian details he’s been exploring of late. What’s compelling about Dion Lee as a designer is his ability to both settle on – and intelligently develop – a specific theme while managing to keep his clothes distinctly his own.
