New York Fashion Week: our weekend highlights opening fashion month

New York Fashion Week opens the fashion month ball once again. It is followed by London, Milan and finally Paris. The presentation of the spring-summer 2024 ready-to-wear collections at New York Fashion Week took place from Friday September 8 to Wednesday September 13, 2023.

Tommy Hilfiger, Area, Alexander Wang, Laquan Smith, Jeremy Scott, Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, The Row, Tom Ford… The biggest names in American design are still here. Let’s take a look at the designers who made their mark this week at NYFW.

Peter Do's first steps at Helmut Lang

Born in Biên Hòa, Vietnam, Do moved to Philadelphia with his parents at the age of 14. His interest in fashion, which developed through his internet explorations, led him to the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), and then to a position at Céline’s atelier, where he worked under Phoebe Philo. In 2018, he launched his own brand filling the void left by Phoebe Philo by creating elegant, luxurious daywear for women with exquisite taste, which quickly won over the likes of Moses Sumney and Jeno from NCT. His fascination with the work of Helmut Lang has evolved alongside his career.

The Spring 2024 collection is entitled “Born to Go” and is a reverence to Helmut Lang as well as a declaration of love to New York. With this collection, Do has attempted to combine heritage and modernity. He kept the emblematic elements of Helmut Lang’s original creations, such as the fuchsia color palette, minimalist silhouettes purely from the 90s and graphic motifs.

However, Do’s own vision shone through in his clear homage to New Yorkers, symbolized by an all-black outfit (the unofficial color of New York’s uniform), touches of yellow evoking the city’s cabs, and harness-like straps reminiscent of the seatbelts used in those same cabs.

Christian Siriano celebrates 15 years in Haute Couture

Christian Siriano celebrated 15 years in the haute-couture world on Friday, dressing his models in a nostalgic, ballet-inspired fantasy at New York Fashion Week.

The first section of the collection featured all-black outfits, with corsets and tailoring, which gradually gave way to sheer extravagance. The real breaking point in the collection was look number 37, a sumptuous cornflower-blue and gold gown worthy of a fairy tale.

The color palette chosen for the Spring 2024 season consists mainly of pink, black, ornate, ivory and nude tones (with the exception of the famous blue dress). Throughout the collection, he explores the dynamic between silhouettes and textures that are both severe and soft. Some tops are layered with tulle, while other dresses are embellished with embroidery or wrapped in laser-cut petals. Form-fitting garments are contrasted with more relaxed cuts, and sequined fabrics catch the light more than matte ones. Another feature of this collection is Siriano’s obsession with flowers: whereas the previous season was inspired by Audrey Hepburn’s rosettes.

He was also keen to guarantee a diversity of offerings, ensuring that his plus-size customers were included, a move he has supported for many years by showcasing plus-size models.

This time, his show featured gender diversity, with one man walking in a short, strapless jumpsuit with a gold corset, while another sported a black tutu skirt paired with a midriff-baring tuxedo jacket.

Anna Sui in the "fairy kingdom"

For the spring season, Sui visited the underwater world. She evoked the influence of her trip to Australia’s Gold Coast, as well as that of a George Méliès film entitled “The Kingdom of the Fairies”. All these elements inspired her to create her underwater spring fantasy collection.

At first glance, Anna Sui’s Spring 2024 collection might appear to be an interpretation of the Y2K aesthetic: flowery culottes, crochet sets and metallic miniskirts that have been claimed and embraced by younger generations. Anna Sui incorporated elements such as shells, pearls and iridescent effects into her collection, which could recall the reflections of water at sunset. There were oversized, chunky cardigans, sequined jersey outfits, princess-worthy dresses and vegan leather items, all designed in loose, airy cuts.

“I wanted to capture the waves, swirls and sparkle of water to get the message across,” she said.

Khaite empowerment

Ferocity. This is the watchword for Catherine Holstein’s collection for Khaite. For the Spring 2024 season, Khaite focuses on creating visual contrasts by blurring distinctions between different features such as surface and structure, organic and synthetic, and light and shadow. During the show, each model was illuminated by a spotlight as they walked, highlighting the lightness of certain fabrics and revealing the shadows of their bodies beneath.

This juxtaposition of visual elements also extended to the clothing style, which played with proportions. Oversized sheer blouses with balloon sleeves were paired with leather shorts, dresses both cinched at the waist and featuring a dropped waist, as were off-the-shoulder jackets accompanied by fringed skirts or leg-shaping models.

The early part of the show was completely dark, marrying slightly flared fitted knits with hard-wearing motorcycle leather.

However, the collection was more of a conversation between solid and delicate, with airy silk tunics and fitted organza dresses, alternating between biker jackets and designer suits. The color palette was mostly limited to neutral tones, with a touch of “flame red.”

We have the impression that Catherine Holstein wanted to talk about strength and empowerment, yes. But the duality between solid and delicacy, hardness and softness rots precisely will show “vulnerability” that lies behind this strength.

Les nouveaux arrivants

Advisry

Advisry was born from the artistic inspiration of Keith Herron. At the age of 13, Herron began designing clothes, and today he gets to unleash his creativity during NYFW. Its collection features oversized graphic knits and plaid statement pieces, featuring the university’s iconic “A,” which represents the brand while giving it a cool, retro feel.

Advisry explores the world of sports fashion for men and women, highlighting Herron’s creative influences, including Swiss filmmaker Jean-Luc Godard, famous for his film “Masculin Féminin.” The title of this film was adopted as the theme for Advisry’s 2022 collection. Last December, Herron also collaborated on the creation of a collection for the artistic legacy of Jean Michel Basquiat. Beyond camera bags and graphic iconography inspired by cinema and art, Advisry’s designs are attracting strong interest, including from other renowned designers such as the late Virgil Abloh, Steve Lacy and Tyler the Creator, who have been spotted wearing his designs.

Grace Ling, sensuality tinged with mystery

Emerging designer Grace Ling marked her New York Fashion Week debut with a dark and sensual presence.

The fashion newcomer, temporary CFDA member and Net-a-Porter Vanguard alumna, launched her own brand in 2020 after gaining experience at Thom Brown and The Row. Since then, she has built a reputation for her artistic and architectural creations which exude a sensuality tinged with mystery. For the spring season, this Singapore-born, New York-based designer unveiled a collection of 30 minimalist and surreal looks that reflect these concepts.

The clothing designed by Ling focuses on exploring the relationship between human anatomy and objects, as the exhibition notes indicate. The result is beautifully embodied by pierced metal sculptures adorned with flowers that act as buttons, fasteners and fasteners for clothing, creating the illusion of a “stabbed” collarbone on a black dress with a plunging neckline. Many garments were characterized by slits, necklines and sheer fabrics (although a nice selection of sharp and bold tailoring was also on display.) This was particularly visible in her series of “vanishing” knits – a range of ombré dresses in nylon and viscose that seductively revealed and concealed the body. The highlight was an asymmetrical dress with an ombre hem that looked like it had been sublimely scorched.

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